Kanchenjunga expedition 2023
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world and the second-highest in Nepal. The mountain rises to an elevation of 8,586 meters (28,169 feet) above sea level. The name “Kanchenjunga” originates from the Tibetan words 'Kanchen' and ‘Dzonga’ which means "The Five Treasures of the Great Snows", as the mountain has five peaks.
Kanchenjunga is situated all the way to the eastern corner of Nepal at the boarder with India. So remote and beautiful! Kangchenjunga is a challenging and technical mountain to climb.
BC to C4
This Base Camp BC (5475m) is one of the most rugged there is. It looked like a bird cliff where the tents were clinging to the rock wall, and I wondered if it was possible to fit in the heli somewhere.. My friend, our helicopter pilot Horacio, just dived right down 🫣. And the landing was just as crazy quick as the four last days: descending from camp 2 on Dhaulagiri, buss breakdown on our way to Pokhara, few hours sleep before travel to Kathmandu and only few hours and many cups of coffe in Kathmandu before takeoff again.
The weather was good so no time to waste: the day after arriving I climb directly to camp 2 (C2) at 6200m. When I reached the ridge above camp 1, the weather changed from nice sunshine to snowshowers and wind. I climbed down to the glacier where we established C2.
Next morning I continued across the glacier and up to Camp 3 at 6900m. It was a beautiful climb through ice sculptures and crevasses. After a good nights sleep I continued the scenic climb to Camp 4 at 7300m.
Summit push
I reached C4 (7300m) and got in to the tent; hydrated, ate, repacked and organised for the summit push. Not getting in more than 30 minutes rest before we kicked off at 6pm.
We were climbing in to the sunset surrounded by all the beautiful colors. Embracing the last rays of light before it was getting dark and cold.
After five hours climbing Cheppal got news on the radio from the fixing team; they didn’t manage to reached the summit. They had been climbing for more than 24 hours and they had no more ropes …
We continued upwards. After two more hours climbing, we met the rope fixing team on their way down. We still continued upwards.
The night was long but it was an amazing night full of stars, with little wind and good temperatures (minus 15-20C).
The start of the climb was steep snow slopes which ended up in boulders and rockwalls. It was technical and that keeps me focused which helps me stay awake and alerted. When we were at the last rockwall, very close to the summit, the rope ended.
Cheppal got a rope out and started fixing. He is the hero of the day; without him and his brave desision to fix the last part, it is unknown if any would have made the summit this day. It was amazing to climb up the last little part and have the view out to all the mountains surrounding us.
I summited at 0745 the 25th of May. Exact 48 years since the first ascend by a team of British climbers, led by Joe Brown and George Band.
I enjoyed the summit and the view for 30 minutes before I started the difficult climb down. I descended and reached Camp 4 at 1300; there I took a short break to eat and hydrate before I continued down to Camp 3. I reached the camp after a 24 hours climb.
The morning after, I woke up to Flor at the radio; Louise was still not back in Camp 4 after the summit. Last we heard from him was the evening before at 2200 when he reported on the radio that he was on his way down from the summit.
We were all worried.
We were told that a rescue team was on its way so we continued our descend. The weather was getting worse and helicopters could not fly. The rescue team was delayed. I reached Base Camp, and we were still waiting for Louise and for the rescue team. Frustrating hours. The team found him two days later not far below the summit. Dear Louis, thank you for all the good talks and the laughs. Rest in peace.
Kanchenjunga is situated all the way to the eastern corner of Nepal at the boarder with India. So remote and beautiful! Kangchenjunga is a challenging and technical mountain to climb.
BC to C4
This Base Camp BC (5475m) is one of the most rugged there is. It looked like a bird cliff where the tents were clinging to the rock wall, and I wondered if it was possible to fit in the heli somewhere.. My friend, our helicopter pilot Horacio, just dived right down 🫣. And the landing was just as crazy quick as the four last days: descending from camp 2 on Dhaulagiri, buss breakdown on our way to Pokhara, few hours sleep before travel to Kathmandu and only few hours and many cups of coffe in Kathmandu before takeoff again.
The weather was good so no time to waste: the day after arriving I climb directly to camp 2 (C2) at 6200m. When I reached the ridge above camp 1, the weather changed from nice sunshine to snowshowers and wind. I climbed down to the glacier where we established C2.
Next morning I continued across the glacier and up to Camp 3 at 6900m. It was a beautiful climb through ice sculptures and crevasses. After a good nights sleep I continued the scenic climb to Camp 4 at 7300m.
Summit push
I reached C4 (7300m) and got in to the tent; hydrated, ate, repacked and organised for the summit push. Not getting in more than 30 minutes rest before we kicked off at 6pm.
We were climbing in to the sunset surrounded by all the beautiful colors. Embracing the last rays of light before it was getting dark and cold.
After five hours climbing Cheppal got news on the radio from the fixing team; they didn’t manage to reached the summit. They had been climbing for more than 24 hours and they had no more ropes …
We continued upwards. After two more hours climbing, we met the rope fixing team on their way down. We still continued upwards.
The night was long but it was an amazing night full of stars, with little wind and good temperatures (minus 15-20C).
The start of the climb was steep snow slopes which ended up in boulders and rockwalls. It was technical and that keeps me focused which helps me stay awake and alerted. When we were at the last rockwall, very close to the summit, the rope ended.
Cheppal got a rope out and started fixing. He is the hero of the day; without him and his brave desision to fix the last part, it is unknown if any would have made the summit this day. It was amazing to climb up the last little part and have the view out to all the mountains surrounding us.
I summited at 0745 the 25th of May. Exact 48 years since the first ascend by a team of British climbers, led by Joe Brown and George Band.
I enjoyed the summit and the view for 30 minutes before I started the difficult climb down. I descended and reached Camp 4 at 1300; there I took a short break to eat and hydrate before I continued down to Camp 3. I reached the camp after a 24 hours climb.
The morning after, I woke up to Flor at the radio; Louise was still not back in Camp 4 after the summit. Last we heard from him was the evening before at 2200 when he reported on the radio that he was on his way down from the summit.
We were all worried.
We were told that a rescue team was on its way so we continued our descend. The weather was getting worse and helicopters could not fly. The rescue team was delayed. I reached Base Camp, and we were still waiting for Louise and for the rescue team. Frustrating hours. The team found him two days later not far below the summit. Dear Louis, thank you for all the good talks and the laughs. Rest in peace.
FACTS:
The advance basecamp (5,475m/17,963ft),
Camp II at (6,200m/20,241ft),
Camp III at (6,900m/22,638ft),
Camp IV (7,400m/24,278ft)
Summit (8,586m/28,169ft).
C2 at 6200m to C3 at 6900m. Steep climb up the glacier
C3 6900m to C4 7400m. Steep climb up the glacier
SUMMIT at 0745 the 25th of May. Exact 48 years since first ascend by a team of British climbers, led by Joe Brown and George Band. We started our summit push at 1800 the evening before, and 24 hrs later we were back in the tent resting.
The advance basecamp (5,475m/17,963ft),
Camp II at (6,200m/20,241ft),
Camp III at (6,900m/22,638ft),
Camp IV (7,400m/24,278ft)
Summit (8,586m/28,169ft).
C2 at 6200m to C3 at 6900m. Steep climb up the glacier
C3 6900m to C4 7400m. Steep climb up the glacier
SUMMIT at 0745 the 25th of May. Exact 48 years since first ascend by a team of British climbers, led by Joe Brown and George Band. We started our summit push at 1800 the evening before, and 24 hrs later we were back in the tent resting.
