Nanga Parbat Expedition 2024
Nanga Parbat, which means “Naked Mountain”, known locally as Diamer 'King of the Mountains' is the ninth-highest mountain in the world at 8,126 m (26,660 ft) and is the western anchor of the entire mountain range Himalaya. It is the second tallest mountain in Pakistan after K2
I traveled to Pakistan to join friends and try to climb this amazing mountain and here is my story:
NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION 2024
Early start from Chilas where we after breakfast packed up into 4 cars and startet what was supposed to be a 2 hours car ride. After a visit to the Police check point and 2 car breakdowns we squezed into/onto 2 jeeps and continued to where the road ended in the river. We transfered to small iron-baskers and were vinshed over the river. From there we started to walk at 10:50 and 1600m. We walked through villages, passing schools, played a bit with the children before continuing upwards. Passing through two more sleepy peaceful villages and some giggeling children at the rooftops, healthy donkeys and goats before we reached Sar at 2800m at 16:30. Here we have set up tents and are now enjoying tea in the evening sun at our campsite with children and donkeys around us. Peace!
I traveled to Pakistan to join friends and try to climb this amazing mountain and here is my story:
NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION 2024
Early start from Chilas where we after breakfast packed up into 4 cars and startet what was supposed to be a 2 hours car ride. After a visit to the Police check point and 2 car breakdowns we squezed into/onto 2 jeeps and continued to where the road ended in the river. We transfered to small iron-baskers and were vinshed over the river. From there we started to walk at 10:50 and 1600m. We walked through villages, passing schools, played a bit with the children before continuing upwards. Passing through two more sleepy peaceful villages and some giggeling children at the rooftops, healthy donkeys and goats before we reached Sar at 2800m at 16:30. Here we have set up tents and are now enjoying tea in the evening sun at our campsite with children and donkeys around us. Peace!
Day 2
After a night at 1mm mattress (anything at all??) and the night filled with happy donkey-screams, we started from camp at 07 at 2800m and after 2 hours we reached a village with many children and young couples. They had moved up to the summer pastry with their animals. What a peaceful place! I was asked if I could come and look at a lady who didnt feel good. I went up to a little rock-cabin when a tiny girl sat with a 1 month old boy. All was fine with the baby, but mother had headace, neck pain and was wometing. I adviced her to drink hot water with Local herbs and fresh goat milk and I asked her husband to come with me to BC for medicines. We walked on through nice woods and reached the glacier. We had breaks together with the shepards and looked at the Local shepards huts. We reached BC at 16; after 9 hours on the move. Ther I first had to find all the medicines, before finding money to tip the porters, and then finally get to the toilet. After that I got a hot coffe and then organising and moving in to my tent. I relaxed 30 minutes before dinner. After dinner I Brigsjef my teeth under the millions of stars and the white Shadow of NP. Now it is quiet.
Day 3
Restday in BC: Had a good nights sleep with just tiny headace in the morning (dehydrated and altitude). It was so nice to wake up to the sound of birds singing and the sun hitting my tent. It soon heated up my tent to a sauna and all possible zippers were opened. I chilled before breakfast at 08. We all met outside the diningtent for coffe in the sun. All except «queen» Klara. She is living her own life and do her own things. (She had ordered breakfast at 09)
After breakfast we enjoyed the sun and talked and then I went in my tent to sleep. And I slept well for 2 hrs. When I woke up, Ana and Nadra from Oman had arrived and it was so nice!! We had laughs and talks and it was so wonderful! After lunch I went back to tent to chill, read, write and dress warmer before dinner at 19:30
I am still waiting for my bags/cargo from Nepal. It was sent 1 week ago and it contains my summit boots, summit suit and crampons. I can not climb without. And I need my boots and crampons day after tomorrow when we go for C1
Day 4
Another restday in BC. After breakfast The fixing team went up to C1 and will fix to C2 tomorrow (including the Kinshofer Wall). Wasim went all the way to half way up to K Wall breaking train for the fixing team. Veroniqe went to C1. When I wanted to start my acc walk I was asked to come and look at to girls who were ill. I went over to the big rock and saw a woman with a rotten touth …it must be so painfull. The little girl was so cold. Rapid told he had no father only mom. She was poor. She said she had bad lunges. I listened and they were very raspy every breath she took. I gave advices, painkiller for the tooth, toothbrush+paste, and my Black cashmere shal and Black tights for the little girl. I then went for a acclimatization walk to Crampon point at the glacier below C1. I took it slow and was back at camp at 2pm. Got lunch; pizza, rice, dahl and mango. After lunch I helped Vadim to put up his new tent together with Ane and Veroniqe, and then came the storm. Thunder and lightening from down the valley. We ran around and secured the tents and all loose things. Now we are all cosy in our tents while it is thunder and Lightning and snowing outside.
Day 5
Restday in BC. After breakfast I did a bit of repair and then I went for a walk up to 4530m. It was warm and nice. I enjoyed the flowers, marmots and the birds singing. I stayed up there daydreaming for 40min before I returned to an amazing lunch (springrolls and samosa). After lunch I got a tray and cleaned myself and did laundry in my tent. Then the sherpas came back. It was so nice to see them again. They explained how the snowconditions were and how far they got with the fixing (500m below K Wall) Then Ane came visit and we sat outside enjoying the beautiful sunset until dinner. After dinner I took some pictures of camp before it is bedtime.
Day 6
Restday in BC; today has been really chill. Fixing equipment and packing and preparing to go up to C1 for one night. Then they said no, only touch and go back down. Lets see. I visited Ane and tried her boots. A bit small but possible. Lunch was amazing with Pakora and fries. Then Ane visited me and we sat outside together with Nadira and polstered our ice axes in the evening sun. And then I found my rainbow wig and showed Nima: big success and a lot of laughter. Both Nima and Nima tried on and made fun and pictures.
Day 7
Had a great day today climbing from BC to C1 at 5000m in beautiful Sunny weather. Here we have a good tent spot away from any avalanche paths. I will spend the night here and I am so lucky to share tent with my friend Ane @popuplens
Day 8
Good acclimatization; slept through nearby avalanches in C1 and had a climb up to 5300m before returning to BC and finding that all my bags have arrived. Now I am all good
Day 9
Restday in BC; nice weather and the fixing team got back after successfully fixing to 200m below C3. Got best friend with a shepards dog today; made my day 😁
Day 10
Woke up to cloudy weather but it cleared up during breakfast and after breakfast we could sit outside my tent and clean the dog Nangas wounds with aloevera. After that the weather turned and it started snowing and hailing. I went back in my sleepingbag with a cup of coffe and a cup of cocko. I read and slept until 1300 when I heard rumbeling from the mountain and screeming in camp. I understood it was rockfalls and went out of my tent and realised many rock at the size of a car coming down the hillside towards our camp. The biggest rock stopped just meters from Ane´s dining tent. She moved afterwards. I helped her moving and after that we went to company a goat who lost his friend (slaughtered)
Then I enjoyed my book in the sleepingbag before Veronique invited to cheese Abodance. I asked Ane to come too and we had music and danced. This was Veroniques farwell. Ane stayed for dinner and it was really good.
NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION 2024
We have started our rotation up the mountain. Today we started from BC in rainy weather and arrived C1 after 3 hrs in sunshine. Now we have had soup and will have early start tomorrow. Goodnight from C1
Rotation C1 - C2
Started climbing from C1 at 0630 in great weather and conditions. It was a really long days climb; 8 hours up the snowy steep mountain until the famous and furrious Kinshofer Wall which was 2 hours technical climbing. Arrived safe in C2 after 10 hours climbing. Now we are resting in our tents and will stay the night here
Rotation C2 - BC
After two nights in C2 we climbed back down to BC. What took us 10 hours up, was only 4 hours climb down. Not without dramatic. Last night our dear French friends climbed half way down the Kinshofer Wall and saved one Pakistani climber. Thank you Matheo and Noa 🙏🏽 When I climbed down this morning I got to the Pakistani where he had spent the whole night hanging on the rope, and helped him with getting his shoes and crampons on so he could continue down.
I left C2 at 0630 and climbed in the shadow all the way down to C1 which is safer due to the avalanche risk. We arrived BC where the kitchen staff has spoiled us with good food and bucket-shower.
BC restday
Great day to recover in BC. I have done my laundry and it has been perfect weather for drying and being laundry guard so the donkeys dont eat it or run away with it 🤭
Unfortunately it looks like our weather window is too short now, and the BC-waiting-game is on
BC restday
All sherpas went up to C2 today and will continue to C3 and fix ropes to C4. Then all is set for our summit push. But it looks like we have to wait one week in BC before we have a good weather window again
BC restdays
Many have asked; what do you do in BC when you have restdays? Let me tell you:
When the sun (hopefully) hits the tent at 07:30 it is time to get up. After visiting our good toilet tent (hole in the ground) and having some cold water in my face from the streem, I get myself a coffe from the dining tent where we have thermoses with hot water. At 08 isch we have breakfast. If nice weather we sit outside and talk after breakfast or go for a walk. I love to go to the highpoint above our camp. From there you have amazing view and a wonderful little spot of grass with flowers and rubarber. Here I lay down and daydream before I go back for lunch. If bad weather I read books in my tent. After lunch normally the clouds are building up. We might visit the others in the camp and have tea with them or find a good spot for time-laps or try to get close to some of the many marmors. We also have a big rock in BC where we gather for bouldering. I had a dog here for the first two weeks and he had a bad wound on his leg, so I used a lot of time to treat him. I have also been know as the doctor so I get visitors from the village who I treat the best I can to my humble knowledge. We have dinner at 19:30 and after that we go to bed (sleepingbag in our tents of course). One night we had a campfire. Everyone gathered around the fore and the locals where singing and dancing and using anything as drums. Thant was an evening to remember. Of course we study weather forecast and discuss our climbing plans every day.
The meals are great! It is amazing what they can make out of this small humble Stone kitchens. We get pizza, pasta, rice, meat casserol, sound, sweet n sour cashew vegetable stew, pancakes, chapati, eggs in all variations and puddings and canned frukts. The sad thing is that we get to know our meals; the goats and the chickens are our pets and friends until they are no more. But they do live in heaven here until it is over.
We have started our rotation up the mountain. Today we started from BC in rainy weather and arrived C1 after 3 hrs in sunshine. Now we have had soup and will have early start tomorrow. Goodnight from C1
Rotation C1 - C2
Started climbing from C1 at 0630 in great weather and conditions. It was a really long days climb; 8 hours up the snowy steep mountain until the famous and furrious Kinshofer Wall which was 2 hours technical climbing. Arrived safe in C2 after 10 hours climbing. Now we are resting in our tents and will stay the night here
Rotation C2 - BC
After two nights in C2 we climbed back down to BC. What took us 10 hours up, was only 4 hours climb down. Not without dramatic. Last night our dear French friends climbed half way down the Kinshofer Wall and saved one Pakistani climber. Thank you Matheo and Noa 🙏🏽 When I climbed down this morning I got to the Pakistani where he had spent the whole night hanging on the rope, and helped him with getting his shoes and crampons on so he could continue down.
I left C2 at 0630 and climbed in the shadow all the way down to C1 which is safer due to the avalanche risk. We arrived BC where the kitchen staff has spoiled us with good food and bucket-shower.
BC restday
Great day to recover in BC. I have done my laundry and it has been perfect weather for drying and being laundry guard so the donkeys dont eat it or run away with it 🤭
Unfortunately it looks like our weather window is too short now, and the BC-waiting-game is on
BC restday
All sherpas went up to C2 today and will continue to C3 and fix ropes to C4. Then all is set for our summit push. But it looks like we have to wait one week in BC before we have a good weather window again
BC restdays
Many have asked; what do you do in BC when you have restdays? Let me tell you:
When the sun (hopefully) hits the tent at 07:30 it is time to get up. After visiting our good toilet tent (hole in the ground) and having some cold water in my face from the streem, I get myself a coffe from the dining tent where we have thermoses with hot water. At 08 isch we have breakfast. If nice weather we sit outside and talk after breakfast or go for a walk. I love to go to the highpoint above our camp. From there you have amazing view and a wonderful little spot of grass with flowers and rubarber. Here I lay down and daydream before I go back for lunch. If bad weather I read books in my tent. After lunch normally the clouds are building up. We might visit the others in the camp and have tea with them or find a good spot for time-laps or try to get close to some of the many marmors. We also have a big rock in BC where we gather for bouldering. I had a dog here for the first two weeks and he had a bad wound on his leg, so I used a lot of time to treat him. I have also been know as the doctor so I get visitors from the village who I treat the best I can to my humble knowledge. We have dinner at 19:30 and after that we go to bed (sleepingbag in our tents of course). One night we had a campfire. Everyone gathered around the fore and the locals where singing and dancing and using anything as drums. Thant was an evening to remember. Of course we study weather forecast and discuss our climbing plans every day.
The meals are great! It is amazing what they can make out of this small humble Stone kitchens. We get pizza, pasta, rice, meat casserol, sound, sweet n sour cashew vegetable stew, pancakes, chapati, eggs in all variations and puddings and canned frukts. The sad thing is that we get to know our meals; the goats and the chickens are our pets and friends until they are no more. But they do live in heaven here until it is over.
NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION 2024
Summitpush
We are starting our summitpush tomorrow 7th of July. We will have one night in C1 and one night in C2. When we reach C3 we will rest and hydrate before we continue climbing through the night and hope to summit in the early hours the 10th of July. Wish us luck 🙏🏽
Summitpush
Had a great day climbing from C1 at 3:30 this morning. Snow and temperature was perfect. We climbed all morning in shadow and reached Kinshofer Wall after 6:20 hrs and climbed technical 1:10 hrs. Beat my last time by 2 hrs yey! Which means more time to rest before we go to C3 tomorrow early.
Summit!!
Yey I made it to the summit 10th of July at 06:15 after a push that started from C2 (6050m) the day before, at 05:15, with only 2 small hours in C3 (6830m) to eat and hydrate. After that we climbed all night and was revarded with amazing views and unfortunately very strong wind which didn’t leave us with too long time up there before heading down. Now I am safe back in BC.
Summitpush
We are starting our summitpush tomorrow 7th of July. We will have one night in C1 and one night in C2. When we reach C3 we will rest and hydrate before we continue climbing through the night and hope to summit in the early hours the 10th of July. Wish us luck 🙏🏽
Summitpush
Had a great day climbing from C1 at 3:30 this morning. Snow and temperature was perfect. We climbed all morning in shadow and reached Kinshofer Wall after 6:20 hrs and climbed technical 1:10 hrs. Beat my last time by 2 hrs yey! Which means more time to rest before we go to C3 tomorrow early.
Summit!!
Yey I made it to the summit 10th of July at 06:15 after a push that started from C2 (6050m) the day before, at 05:15, with only 2 small hours in C3 (6830m) to eat and hydrate. After that we climbed all night and was revarded with amazing views and unfortunately very strong wind which didn’t leave us with too long time up there before heading down. Now I am safe back in BC.
