Greetings from Islamabad!
Now I have had 3 days on the move down from the mountains and the beautiful northern corner of Pakistan.
Here are some of my notes about the last days at Diran;
We tried 3 times to go for the summit, but she (Diran) clearly told us that she didn't want us to do so.
The first two attempts we had to returne due to bad weather and storms coming in.
So at our last attempt, we had only a surtain amount of days left. We calculated food and gas (which we also were running low on), packed our backpacks and went for it.
The cerac wall which we wanted to do in one+ day, took us three+ days: a labyrinth of deadly overhanging ceracs and hidden crevasses. Unfortunately we also got more snow (20cm) and the trail breaking slowed us even more down.
Wednesday last week we had reached right below the ridge (sadle) and had now put behind us the most dangerous and challenging part of the climb. We were ready to use the few days we had left effectively; Thursday push to about 6400m and Friday go for the summit and back to the ridge. That would have left us with two days for the descent. Good plan!
Thursday we woke up to more snow and high temperatures. :(
Despite this snowfall, we packed up our camp and sat off!
After short time climbing we had a huge crack in the snow right in front of us. And then an avalanche right below us.....warning enough!
The whole face we were climbing could easily slide off...
We had to return and admitt that the snow conditions were too dangerous to continue climbing.
We sat camp under a cerac at 5600m to wait out for safer conditions. And now we had no choice; running out of time, running out of gas and running out on food: we had to use the better climbing conditions to descend.
Sadly no summit of Diran (4 years since last summit of Diran: two japanees) but fantastic climbing in majestic surroundings.
Some frostbite richer and kg poorer I will reach for the next adventure.
There will always be so many happy memories, so much to learn, see and explore! New adventures, new dreams
Keep on dreaming, even if it breaks your heart! (Eli Young Band)